In the heart of Aubervilliers, a bustling commune in the Seine-Saint-Denis department of France, stands the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Vertus, known locally as église Notre-Dame-des-Vertus d'Aubervilliers. This magnificent edifice, with its blend of Gothic and classical architectural elements, has been a beacon of faith and history for centuries, drawing pilgrims and tourists alike to its hallowed grounds.
The origins of the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Vertus date back to the early 13th century, when a smaller church dedicated to Saint Christopher stood on this site. This early structure may have had Carolingian roots, indicating its significance even in those ancient times. In 1242, the church was attached to the Abbey of Saint-Marcel in Saint-Denis, further cementing its religious importance.
One of the most remarkable events in the church's history occurred in the summer of 1336. Aubervilliers, at the heart of one of France's largest vegetable-growing plains, was suffering from a severe drought. On May 14, a young girl prayed at the church, and miraculously, the statue of the Virgin Mary began to weep, followed by a gentle and life-giving rain. This miracle not only revived the parched land but also brought about numerous healings, attracting pilgrims from far and wide, including kings and saints.
As the number of pilgrims grew, the original church could no longer accommodate them, leading to the construction of a new, larger church in the 15th century. This new structure, built in the Rayonnant Gothic style, featured intricately decorated capitals with foliage, animals, and Christian symbols. The vaults, with their complex lierne and tierceron ribs, added to the church's architectural splendor.
One of the most striking features of the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Vertus is its massive tower, which stands at 30 meters tall. Built in 1541 and later connected to the church through the expansion of the nave between 1616 and 1621, the tower is a testament to the church's enduring presence. In 1628, the church received a new classical facade, complete with a central niche housing a statue of the Virgin Mary. The niches above the side doors likely once contained statues as well.
The church has undergone several restorations over the centuries. After being damaged during the Commune of Paris in the 19th century, it was restored by the parish priest Laurent Amodru. Although a nine-meter spire added in the 19th century was destroyed by fire in 1900, the church continues to stand as a symbol of resilience and faith.
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The stained glass windows of the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Vertus are a visual feast, each telling a story of faith and miracles. Installed in 1914, many of these windows were destroyed by an explosion in 1918 but were meticulously restored by the Champigneulle house in 1919.
The central window depicts Christ holding the Book of Life, flanked by Saint Christopher and Saint James, the church's early patrons. The north aisle features windows illustrating various miracles attributed to the Virgin Mary, including the miracle of the rain, the repentance of the Marshal of Toulouse, and the healing of children. The south aisle windows depict notable pilgrims, the Baptism of Christ, and the apparition of Christ to Saint Margaret Mary.
The church is also home to a remarkable organ, built between 1630 and 1635 by Pierre Pescheur. The oak case, with its harpies and elaborate carvings, houses an organ with thirty stops, three keyboards, and a French-style pedalboard. Restored in 1987 to its 1780 state, the organ was inaugurated in 1990 by the renowned organist Michel Chapuis.
The Church of Notre-Dame-des-Vertus has long been a site of pilgrimage. The original wooden statue of the Virgin Mary was burned in 1793, but a replica made in 1873 continues to draw the faithful. The church's stained glass windows and ex-votos (offerings of thanks) tell the stories of countless pilgrims who sought the Virgin's intercession, including Saint Ignatius of Loyola, Saint Vincent de Paul, and King Louis XIII.
Each year, a pilgrimage from the Basilica of Saint-Denis to Notre-Dame-des-Vertus commemorates this long-standing tradition of faith and devotion. The church's rich history and spiritual significance make it a must-visit destination for those seeking to connect with the past and experience the enduring power of faith.
In conclusion, the Church of Notre-Dame-des-Vertus is not just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the enduring power of faith and the miracles that have shaped the lives of countless individuals. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or a pilgrim seeking spiritual solace, this church offers a profound and enriching experience that will leave a lasting impression on your heart and mind.
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