Palace of Infante don Luis

Situated in the charming town of Boadilla del Monte, just a stone's throw away from the bustling city of Madrid, the Palace of Infante don Luis (known locally as Palacio del Infante don Luis) stands as a beacon of neoclassical architecture and historical intrigue. This magnificent palace, designed by the illustrious architect Ventura Rodríguez in 1765, offers visitors a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of Spanish nobility and the rich cultural heritage of the 18th century.

The Origins of the Palace

The Palace of Infante don Luis owes its existence to Infante Luis Antonio de Borbón y Farnesio, the youngest son of King Felipe V and brother to King Carlos III. In 1761, Infante don Luis acquired the lordship of Boadilla, capitalizing on the financial troubles of the Marquise of Mirabal. The palace was constructed on the site of the former Palace of the Two Towers, integrating the older structure into the new design by Ventura Rodríguez.

Construction progressed rapidly, and by 1765, the palace was completed, as commemorated by an inscription on the main façade. The palace became the principal residence of Infante don Luis until 1776, when he married María Teresa de Vallabriga and moved to the Palace of La Mosquera in Arenas de San Pedro. During his residency, the palace also hosted notable figures such as the musician Luigi Boccherini, who enjoyed the patronage of the Infante.

A Tumultuous History

After the death of Infante don Luis, the palace passed to his descendants, the Dukes of Sueca, who enriched its interiors with an impressive art collection. Unfortunately, the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) brought considerable damage to the palace, and many artworks were lost or looted. The building was repurposed as a military barracks and hospital, and later as a girls' boarding school under the Auxilio Social organization.

In 1974, the palace was declared a National Monument, and in 1998, it was expropriated by the Boadilla del Monte Town Council. Various restoration efforts have taken place since then, with significant works undertaken in 1944, 1973, 2006, and 2014, the latter funded by the European Union's FEDER funds. Despite several ambitious projects proposed for the palace, including a cultural center by the SGAE, these plans were ultimately shelved due to concerns over preserving the site's archaeological integrity.

Architectural Marvels

The Palace of Infante don Luis is a rectangular structure, approximately 17 by 80 meters, with a built area of over 6,300 square meters. The main façade faces northwest, while the rear façade overlooks the extensive gardens to the southeast. The building is composed of three main sections, each with three floors, flanked by two single-story wings.

The exterior is characterized by its red brick construction, with stone elements reserved for the doorways, pediments, and the granite plinth. The roof is covered with traditional Arab tiles, and the structure is topped with two small towers at either end, reminiscent of the original Palace of the Two Towers. These towers serve as light wells, featuring oval windows that break the linearity of the design.

The façades are relatively unadorned, except for the ornate central doorways, pediments, and cornices. The main entrance is framed by Tuscan columns, supporting a balcony with Ionic columns and a semicircular pediment. Above this, a commemorative plaque marks the completion of the palace in 1765. The side entrances are similarly adorned with triangular pediments and balconies.

Luxurious Interiors

While the exterior of the palace is relatively austere, the interiors were once a testament to baroque classicism. The chapel, in particular, stood out for its opulence, featuring Corinthian motifs, marble, bronze, and stucco decorations. The arches, spandrels, cornices, and vaults were adorned with garlands, angels, grapes, and flowers, creating a lavish atmosphere.

The chapel also houses the tombs of notable historical figures, including María Teresa de Borbón y Vallabriga, Countess of Chinchón, and her sister María Luisa de Borbón y Vallabriga, Duchess of San Fernando de Quiroga. The palace once boasted an extensive art collection, including works by Goya, Rembrandt, Murillo, Velázquez, and Dürer. One notable piece, the Madonna Durán by Rogier van der Weyden, was sold in 1899 and later bequeathed to the Prado Museum in Madrid.

The Enchanting Gardens

The palace is set within a sprawling 71,469 square meter plot, featuring meticulously designed gardens that reflect Italian influences. The gardens are divided into two main sections, the upper and lower gardens, separated by two galleries. Visitors can still admire several original features, including three grottoes, a pond, a stone bridge, and a waterwheel house.

One of the most notable features is the Fountain of the Shells, designed by Ventura Rodríguez and sculpted by Felipe de Castro and Manuel Álvarez the Greek. Originally located near the rear façade of the palace, the fountain was later moved to the Royal Quinta of Vista Alegre and eventually to the Campo del Moro gardens near the Royal Palace of Madrid.

The palace grounds are enclosed by walls of lime and exposed brick, topped with a balustrade of white stone from Colmenar de Oreja. Access is provided through four neoclassical gates, also constructed from brick and crowned with triangular pediments.

Today, the Palace of Infante don Luis stands as a testament to the grandeur of Spanish neoclassical architecture and the rich history of Boadilla del Monte. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply looking for a picturesque escape from Madrid, a visit to this magnificent palace is sure to be a memorable experience.