Ciavieja, nestled in the vibrant municipality of El Ejido in Almería, Spain, is an archaeological gem that offers a fascinating glimpse into the ancient world. This site, whose name is a contraction of Ciudad Vieja or Old City, is believed to be the ancient Murgi, a city of significant historical and cultural importance. The site is a treasure trove of artifacts and structures that span several millennia, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and curious travelers alike.
The history of Ciavieja is intrinsically linked to the ancient city of Murgi. Inscribed in 2017 as part of the General Catalog of Andalusian Historical Heritage, Murgi's archaeological site is a testament to the rich and varied history of southeastern Spain. The site contains remnants from the Neolithic period, predating the Los Millares culture, and artifacts from the Argaric civilization, considered the first state of Western Europe. These early inhabitants left behind tombs and ceramics that provide invaluable insights into prehistoric life.
After a period of abandonment, the area saw renewed habitation in the 5th century BCE. It came under the influence of the Tartessian and later the Carthaginian cultures. The name Murgi is thought to derive from Iberian roots, similar to other fortified settlements like Astigi and Lastigi. Greek ceramics, Iberian bowls, plates, and Punic amphorae found at the site indicate its significance during this era.
Murgi's prominence continued under Roman rule. After the Romans expelled the Carthaginians in the late 3rd century BCE, Murgi became a stipendiary city. Pliny the Elder mentions Murgi in his Natural History, indicating its status as a municipium, likely granted after Emperor Vespasian's edict. The city's importance is further evidenced by its notable production of garum, a highly prized fish sauce in Roman cuisine.
Epigraphic sources from Murgi include nine Latin inscriptions dating from the 1st to the 3rd centuries CE. These inscriptions, which include monumental, votive, honorific, and funerary texts, confirm Murgi's status as a municipium and reference its public affairs. The discovery of pedestals dedicated to emperors Hadrian and Caracalla suggests the presence of a forum, possibly adorned with their statues. A georadar exploration has revealed a circular wall that may have been part of an amphitheater, supporting the existence of a venue for circuses, as mentioned in a 2nd-century inscription dedicated to Porcia Maura.
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The most remarkable find at Ciavieja is undoubtedly the mosaic, discovered in 1983 by amateur archaeologist Andrés Ramírez Franco using a metal detector. The mosaic, located in what was likely a grand Roman domus, measures approximately 20 square meters. It features intricate designs made of irregular tesserae in blue, black, red, and white, typical of the 3rd century.
The mosaic's composition includes a passageway near the entrance and a central motif of a seated panther, surrounded by a line of posts. The panther, often associated with Bacchus, the god of wine and agriculture, is a recurring theme in Roman art. The mosaic also features acanthus palmettes, lanceolate leaves, and small flowers, along with representations of the seasons in the form of maenads.
The discovery of the mosaic was promptly reported to local authorities, and the Junta de Andalucía's Department of Culture swiftly intervened to protect and recover the artifact. An archaeological excavation in 1985 further explored the site, revealing more about the structure and its historical context. Today, the mosaic is preserved and displayed in the Municipal Library of El Ejido, where visitors can admire its beauty and craftsmanship.
Ciavieja is now part of an archaeological park, pending further development. The park is set to be named Parque Arqueológico Ángel Aguilera, in honor of one of its discoverers. Visitors to the site can explore the remnants of ancient Murgi, including its Roman and pre-Roman artifacts, and gain a deeper understanding of the region's historical significance.
A visit to Ciavieja offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and explore the layers of history that have shaped this corner of Spain. Whether you're a seasoned archaeologist or a casual traveler, the site promises a captivating journey through the millennia, revealing the stories of the people who once called Murgi home.
In conclusion, Ciavieja is more than just an archaeological site; it's a portal to the past, offering a rich tapestry of history, culture, and art. Its discoveries, from the Neolithic relics to the stunning Roman mosaic, paint a vivid picture of the ancient world and its enduring legacy. A visit to Ciavieja is a journey through time, one that will leave you with a profound appreciation for the history and heritage of El Ejido and beyond.
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