The Eglise Saint-Laurent, known locally as église Saint-Laurent de Marseille, is a captivating gem of Romanesque Provençal architecture nestled in the heart of Marseille. Perched on the historic butte known as La Tourette, this church offers not only a glimpse into the city’s rich past but also stunning views over the bustling Old Port and the azure Mediterranean beyond.
The roots of Eglise Saint-Laurent stretch back to the end of the 12th century, or possibly the early 13th century, when it was constructed using the distinctive pink stone from the Cap Couronne. This period marked a return to stability in Marseille following the tumultuous raids by Saracens in the 9th century. The church's location was strategically chosen on a fortified site established by Bishop Babon in 870 to protect the city from invaders.
By 1249, under the episcopate of Benoît d'Alignan, the church had become one of the four main parishes of Marseille, alongside the Major, the Accoules, and Saint-Martin. Over the centuries, the Eglise Saint-Laurent has undergone several modifications, including the reconstruction of its apse in the 17th century to accommodate an octagonal bell tower accessible via a spiral staircase. Despite these changes, the church has retained its Romanesque charm and simplicity.
The Eglise Saint-Laurent is a testament to the austere beauty of Romanesque architecture. Its structure is devoid of ornate sculptures, reminiscent of the simplicity found in the Cistercian abbeys of Thoronet, Sénanque, and Silvacane. The church features a nave and side aisles that culminate in an apse and smaller apsidioles at the eastern end.
One of the interior highlights is the polychrome wooden statue of the Virgin Mary and a gilded wooden statue of Saint Laurent dating back to the late 18th century. These pieces add a touch of color and reverence to the church’s otherwise minimalist design.
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Historically, Eglise Saint-Laurent has served as the parish church for Marseille's fishermen, known as the sanjanen. Its location in the fishing district made it a central part of the community. During the devastating plague of 1720, Bishop Mgr de Belsunce held a mass at the church’s entrance, surrounded by the city’s fishermen and shipbuilders, seeking divine intervention.
Throughout the French Revolution, the church faced its share of challenges. It was closed and repurposed as a military warehouse, with its precious metals sent to the mint. However, the church reopened in 1801, once again becoming a spiritual haven for the local community.
In World War II, the Eglise Saint-Laurent narrowly escaped destruction during the German occupation, which saw much of the surrounding Old Port area demolished. Despite being shaken by the blasts, the church stood firm, its bells tolling mournfully as the neighborhood was razed.
Today, Eglise Saint-Laurent is not only a place of worship but also a cultural landmark. In the past, its steps echoed with the sounds of Provençal music, as local folk groups performed after Sunday mass, a tradition encouraged by the parish priest, Abbé Victor Party.
The church continues to draw visitors who are eager to explore its historical architecture and enjoy the serene atmosphere. The chapel of the baptistery, currently awaiting restoration, is a testament to the church’s enduring legacy, classified as a historical monument in 1921, with the church itself receiving this designation in 1950.
A visit to Eglise Saint-Laurent is a journey through time. As you walk through its ancient doors, you are transported to an era of simplicity and spiritual devotion. The panoramic views from the church’s elevated position offer a breathtaking vista of Marseille, making it a perfect spot for reflection and appreciation of the city’s rich tapestry of history and culture.
In conclusion, Eglise Saint-Laurent is more than a historical monument; it is a symbol of resilience and continuity. Its walls have witnessed centuries of change, yet it remains a steadfast beacon of faith and community spirit in the vibrant city of Marseille.
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