Chalon Cathedral

Chalon Cathedral, known locally as Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Chalon-sur-Saône, is a magnificent testament to the rich historical and architectural heritage of Chalon-sur-Saône, a charming town nestled in the Saône-et-Loire department of France. This awe-inspiring cathedral, situated at the heart of the old town on Place Saint-Vincent, beckons visitors with its grandiose façade and intricate details, making it one of the city's most significant landmarks.

The Historical Tapestry of Chalon Cathedral

The origins of Chalon Cathedral are shrouded in mystery, with roots stretching back to the 4th and 5th centuries. The first church was constructed on the remnants of an ancient Gallo-Roman fortification, occupying the site of a former pagan temple. This historical layering was confirmed by the discovery of a votive statue of Mercury in 1776, an altar dedicated to Mars in 1850, and effigies believed to be of Marcus Aurelius in 1908.

The original church, expanded by Saint Agricole, was destroyed by Saracens and later rebuilt by Charlemagne, who convened a grand council there in 813. Initially dedicated to Saint Stephen, the church was rededicated to Saint Vincent around 542. The current cathedral was constructed between 1090 and 1522, a timeline meticulously chronicled by Abbé Salis, an expert on Saint Vincent who devoted his life to uncovering its secrets. The construction history is divided into two main periods: the Romanesque and the Gothic eras.

Architectural Marvels of Chalon Cathedral

The Romanesque period saw three major construction phases. The first, from 1090 to 1100, left behind the southern and northern apsidal chapels. The second phase, from 1120 to 1130, resulted in the ground floor of the choir and the transept arms. The third phase, around 1150, produced the pillars and arcades of the central nave and the two side aisles.

The Gothic period was even more extensive, spanning four major phases from 1220 to 1522. During this time, the apse of the choir, the transept crossing vault, the apse chapel, and the chapter house were constructed around 1220. The nave walls were built around 1310, and from 1380 to 1429, the nave vaults and cloister walls were erected. Finally, from 1400 to 1522, the side aisle chapels, vaults, and cloister were completed.

The west façade, towering above the bustling market of Place Saint-Vincent, dates back to the 19th century, constructed from 1822 to 1844 in the neo-Gothic style. Designed by Lyon architect Antoine Chenavard, this façade replaced an older one featuring a Romanesque bell tower. The current façade boasts a terrace porch, a central nave gable with a rose window, and two symmetrical square towers standing 42 meters tall, crowned with statues of patron saints sculpted by Étienne de Saptes.

Exploring the Interior

Inside, Chalon Cathedral is a symphony of sacred dimensions, as noted by André Salis. The cathedral's interior measures 62.93 meters in length and 21.39 meters in width, with the central nave extending 32.55 meters long and 10.24 meters wide. These dimensions, expressed in 11th-century local measures, are symbolic multiples of the sacred numbers seven (for lengths) and three (for widths).

The central nave features flamboyant piles, fluted pilasters, engaged columns, and molded bases, all supported by Romanesque pillars dating from the late 12th century. The first-floor triforium (a gallery) with a solid balustrade allows for movement within the walls' thickness. Each bay of the central nave contains five trefoil-topped arcades, and the second-floor gallery, the coursière, features an openwork balustrade of quatrefoils. The vault, soaring more than 24 meters above the ground, is a ribbed vault with an axial rib, the lierne.

The nave concludes after seven bays with an architectural curiosity: a large Gothic rose window above a Romanesque arch, separating the central nave from the transept. This arch is a remnant from when the Romanesque nave, covered by a flat ceiling, was lower than the transept. Passing through this arch, visitors enter the transept crossing, composed of Romanesque pillars and arches with a Gothic vault. Initially illuminated by three faces, the crossing is now lit by a rose window to the west and two twin windows with an oculus to the north and south, which are now walled up. The transept arms each have two bays.

The Choir and Sanctuary

Beyond the transept crossing lies the choir, elevated by two steps. Like the transept crossing, the choir features Romanesque pillars and arches of greater refinement. The triforium, which paused at the transept crossing, resumes here, more airy and closer to the arch summits. Each bay contains three windows with pointed arches supported by cylindrical piles. The second gallery, originally without a balustrade, gained an openwork quatrefoil balustrade on its south side in the 14th century. The Gothic vaults are reinforced by two significant arches at the choir's entrance and the sanctuary.

To reach the sanctuary, one ascends three steps. Entirely Gothic, the semi-circular apse was replaced by a five-sided apse. The ground floor windows are framed by two columns each. A tapestry from Brussels, dating to 1510 and installed in 1965, enhances the sanctuary's splendor. Measuring 6.75 meters high and 7.15 meters wide, the tapestry depicts three biblical and Eucharistic scenes.

The Chapels and Artifacts

The two side aisles are lined with chapels, each reflecting the piety of the fervent times that saw their construction. The first chapel on the north side was built in 1424 by Oudot de Malain and dedicated to Saint Michael and Saint Catherine. The second, in flamboyant Gothic style, dates to 1440. The third chapel, a blend of flamboyant and Renaissance styles, was constructed in 1522 by notable citizens of Chalon and bears the twenty-four coats of arms of these founding families. The last two chapels are more modest.

On the south side, the Romanesque style predominates. This side aisle is notable for its stone grilles, characteristic of the Burgundian style also found in Saint-Gengoux-le-National. The fifth chapel on this side features a magnificent fresco from the late 15th century Burgundian school. Numerous ancient mural paintings remain throughout the cathedral, including in the north apsidal chapel (Chapel of the Glorification of the Virgin Mary).

Unique among Burgundian cathedrals, Chalon Cathedral houses the tomb of one of its bishops: Jean Germain, Bishop of Chalon from 1436 to 1461.

The Bells and Grand Organ

The cathedral is home to three bells: a bourdon named Jeanne-Henriette in the left tower, weighing approximately 5,200 kg and cast by Gédéon Morel in 1853, and two smaller bells in the right tower, one cast in 1809 and the other in 1860 by the same founder.

The grand organ, dating to the late 17th century, is a historical monument. The original organ survived until 1751, when Karl-Joseph Riepp built the current instrument, initially with four keyboards and forty-four stops, reduced to three keyboards around 1850. Gérard Goudet has been the organist since 1990.

Chalon Cathedral is more than a place of worship; it is a historical and architectural gem that weaves together centuries of Burgundian history. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or a casual traveler, this cathedral offers a captivating journey through time, leaving you with a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage of Chalon-sur-Saône.